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When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. However, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the owners completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.